Ontario's Near North is a land of rugged beauty with sparkling blue waters, rock cuts like walls and air so fresh you can smell the trees. It also has a colourful and fascinating history.

Voyageurs

This vast area began because fur traders-or voyageurs-paddled up the Ottawa River through the Mattawa River to Lake Talon, Turtle Lake, and Trout Lake. There were portages, rivers and streams before they eventually reached Lake Nipissing which they crossed to arrive at the mouth of the South River. Following the South River took them to the hamlet of Nipissing.

These hardy French Canadian voyageurs led the way for lumberjacks who were transporting the forests for wealth, mail carriers and men of God who would bring some of the necessities of life to isolated families living in homes in dense forests.

Historical Markers

The Highway 17 corridor now follows the voyageurs' route and you can find historical markers that point out the LaVase Portage from Trout Lake to Lake Nipissing used by Brule, Champlain and many others during the 16th and 17th centuries.

Sturdy Stock

The early explorers/settlers were made of sturdy stock. Despite the mosquitoes and black flies in summer and the bone chilling icy north winds in winter these people survived and flourished. In our comfortable air conditioned and centrally heated homes it is difficult to imagine what they must have endured.

Nipissing Village

Stories are told of the Beattie family who arrived in the Nipissing area from Eganville in Renfrew County. When John Beattie brought his family to what is now known as Nipissing Village, they travelled the Ottawa and Mattawa Rivers and across Lake Nipissing on the ice. At one point the horses broke through the ice and Mrs. Beattie had to throw the baby out on the ice to save it. Not only did they survive but the horses were rescued as well and so they continued their journey. Sturdy stock indeed!

One if by Land

But there's more to the story. They also came from the south, not by water this time but by land.

Until approximately 200 years ago the only way to reach the Nipissing area was the route up the Ottawa River. Towns such as Powassan  and others in the region had not yet been built.

The New Road

A few years after the arrival of the Beattie family and others, work began on a road from Rousseau to Nipissing.   As the road progressed changes took place in the region. The Free Land Grant of 1868 granted land in this area to anyone over 18 years of age who would clear and cultivate 15 acres. They were also required to build a home within 5 years.

At that time the railroad came as far as Gravenhurst so settlers travelled by train to Gravenhurst, the "Nipissing" steamer to Rousseau then the new road to the land of their choice.

It was a difficult journey by horse or oxen over this new road especially in spring when the mud and muskeg made it seem particularly arduous.

To ease the settlers' journey, "stopping places" grew up along the road so that weary travellers could find shelter, a hot meal and rest for their animals. Commanda, named after a prominent native family, was one such stopping place. These rest areas also served the locals so that it was now more convenient to travel by the Nipissing Road to Magnetawan or Rousseau for supplies than to travel by canoe to Pembroke.

Some settlers followed this Nipissing-Rousseau Road further north by taking the steam boat across Lake Nipissing and settling in Sturgeon Falls.

More Changes

It looked as though Nipissing was to be the hub of Ontario's Near North. But then the railway came.

The Grand Trunk Railway was extended north from Gravenhurst to meet the Canadian Pacific Railway in North Bay.

Rail travel was more convenient and easier than oxen carts on a mud road or paddling the currents of the Ottawa River so that's what people chose.

Modern Times

North Bay, named because it is in the north bay of Lake Nipissing, became the largest city in the region. It is now possible to drive from there in  3  1/2 hours to Toronto or 3  1/2  hours to Ottawa rather than the original travelling time of many weeks.

You don't have to be a history buff to appreciate the hardy folks who found and settled in this land. The region is steeped in stories of these early settlers. Knowing the history just makes one appreciate the area and people that much more.

Travel to Ontario's Near North and you too can experience the beauty of this  land. It promises to be a much more relaxed and enjoyable trip that it was several centuries ago.